Sarnath (Buddha first sermon)
Sarnath is one of the most beautiful sites in the world,
marking the place where the Buddha delivered his first
sermon, taught his first disciples and introduced the
world to his doctrine of peace. The site lies 10 kilometers
north of the city of Varanasi, and it is said that the
Buddha came here to a tranquil shady forest teeming with
deer and was persuaded by his followers to speak of his
experiences after his enlightenment at Bodh Gaya (Bihar)
and to set up the first Buddhist sangha or order. Its
religious significance and association with the Buddha
made Sarnath a popular pilgrim spot for more than a thousand
years (third century BC to the thirteenth century). Today
the site consists of commemorative stupas, remains of
monasteries of different historical periods, some new
Buddhist institutions, and a museum with a wonderful collection
of Buddhist art.
The main area has been enclosed and consists of a labyrinth
of half-ruined monasteries and votive stupas. It is
fascinating to walk amidst these relics of the past.
The building that dominates ones attention is the Dhamek
Stupa (fifth to sixth century) that commemorates the
spot where the Buddha gave his first sermon. It is a
cylindrical tower (30 meters high) and, like all other
stupas, is a solid structure. The trunk of the stupa
is decorated with panels carved with geometric and floral
designs. Several attempts to excavate the stupa have
revealed that the structure was enlarged no less than
twelve times, with each successive patron adding and
embellishing the original shrine. Another ruined stupa,
the Dharmarajika Stupa, lies to the west of Dhamek Stupa
(third century BC) and is believed to have been built
by Emperor Ashoka. Within its solid hemispherical mound
a casket of funerary relics was found.
The Archaeological Museum of Sarnath is a splendid
building built early this century and stands adjacent
to the historical ruins. The museum contains a large
collection of sculptures which stands testimony to the
fervent artistic and religious activity at Sarnath for
more than a thousand years. The first sculpture to be
encountered in the entrance hall is a huge capital (2.31
meters in height) that once crowned a free-standing
pillar amidst the Sarnath ruins. The Lion capital is
made of pale yellowish-grey speckled sandstone, and
has been burnished so well that its polished surface
still shines. This style of highly polished stone sculpture
is associated with the times of the Mauryan Emperor
Ashoka (third century BC) when pillars carrying Buddhist
symbols were erected throughout the kingdom to mark
places of special religious significance. The capital
has four lions seated back and their snarling (smiling?)
faces gaze towards the four cardinal directions which
they protect. Below, on the abacus, are four wheels,
the emblems of the law of dharma (spiritual movement
and progress). The Dharmachakra wheel is also the sign
of Sarnath, for it is here that the Buddha set the spiritual
wheel in motion by showing people the way to truth and
enlightened living. Separating the wheels on the capital
base are symbolic attributes which the devotee should
acquire: the patient devotion of the bull, the trustworthy
strength of an elephant, the fearless power of the lion,
king of the jungle, matched by the swiftness of the
horse. This lion capital with its message of peace and
dedication was chosen as the emblem of the Indian Republic
and is to be found on all government documents and on
all Indian currency.
Within the same hall is another sculpture called Buddha
Preaching the Law which sums up the events at Sarnath.
The Buddha is shown seated with his hands indicative
of 'turning the wheel of dharma', and below are his
disciples, the deer of the jungle, and at the center
is the dharmachakra. Other sculptures of the museum
are of the Bodhisattva, the potential Buddhas who, out
of compassion for the world, remain on earth to lead
people to the path of truth, ahimsa or non-violence.
The later Kushan period (second century AD) statuses
depict the Bodhisattva in flowing togas and striking
jewellery. There are any number of statues of the Buddha,
as if there had been sculpture factory at Sarnath in
the Gupta period (fourth to fifth century AD).
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